All Saints, Gazeley |
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All Saints is a large, remarkably
good church in one of the sleepy, fat villages along the
Cambridgeshire border, the sort of place you cycle
through and imagine wistfully that you've won the lottery
and could move there. The wide churchyard on both sides
is a perfect setting for the church, which rises to
heaven out of a perpendicular splendour of aisles,
clerestories and battlements. The tower was complete by
the 1470s when money was being left for a bell. The
earlier chancel steadies the ship, anchoring it to earth
quietly, although the tall east window has its
spectacular moment too. And you step into a deliciously
well-kept interior, full of interest. One of the most significant medieval survivals here is not easily noticed. This is the range of 15th Century glass, which was reset by the Victorians high in the clerestory. This seems a curious thing to have done, since it defeats the purpose of a clerestory, but if they had not done so then we might have lost it. The glass matches the tracery in the north aisle windows, so that is probably where they came from. There are angels, three Saints and some shields, most of which are heraldic but two show the instruments of the passion and the Holy Trinity. I would not be surprised to learn that some of the shields are 19th century, but the figures are all original late 15th or early 16th century. The Saints are an unidentified Bishop, the hacksaw-wielding St Faith and one of my favourites, St Apollonia. She it was who was invoked by medieval people against toothache. Waling from the nave up into the
chancel, the space created by the clearing of clutter
makes it at once mysterious and beautiful. Above, the
early 16th century waggon roof is Suffolk's best of its
kind. Mortlock points out the little angels bearing
scrolls, the wheat ears and the vine sprays, and the
surviving traces of colour. The low side window on the
south side still has its hinges, for here it was that
updraught to the rood would have sent the candles
flickering in the mystical church of the 14th century. On
the south side of the sanctuary is an exquisitely carved
arched recess, that doesn't appear to have ever had a
door, and may have been a very rare purpose-built Easter
sepulchre at the time of the 1330s rebuilding. Opposite
is a huge and stunningly beautiful piscina, and beside it
are sedilia that end in an arm rest carved in the shape
of a beast. It is one of the most significant Decorated
moments in Suffolk. The 14th century font is a good example of the tracery pattern series that appeared in the decades before the Black Death. They may have been intended to spread ideas at that time of great artistic and intellectual flowering before it was so cruelly snatched away. The cover is 17th Century. At this end of the nave are two good ranges of medieval benches, one, rare in East Anglia, is a group of 14th Century benches with pierced tracery backs. Some of them appear to spell out words, and Mortlock thought one might say Salaman Sayet. The block of benches to the north appears to be 15th Century or possibly early 16th Century. Further north, the early 17th Century benches are simpler, even cruder, and were likely the work of the village carpenter. All rather lovely then. And yet, it hasn't always been that way. All Saints at Gazeley, near Newmarket, was the first church that I visited after an international team of scientists conclusively proved that God did not exist began the first page for this church that I wrote in 2003, in a satirical mood after finding the church locked and at a very low ebb. At a time when congregations were generally falling, I'd been thinking about the future of medieval churches beyond a time when they would have people to use them in the traditional way. I wondered if the buildings might find new uses, or could adapt themselves to changing patterns and emphases in Christianity, or even changing spiritual needs of their parishes. Even if science could somehow prove that God did not exist, I suggested, there were parishes which would rise to the challenge and reinvent themselves, as churches have always done over the two millennia of Christianity. Coming to Gazeley I felt that here was a church which felt as if it had been abandoned. And yet, it seemed to me a church of such significance, such historical and spiritual importance, that its loss would be a disaster. If it had been clean, tidy and open at the time he was visiting, Simon Jenkins England's Thousand Best Churches would not have been able to resist it. Should the survival of such a treasure store depend upon the existence of God or the continued practice of the Christian faith? Or might there be other reasons to keep this extraordinary building in something like its present integrity? In the first decade of the 21st
Century, Gazeley church went on a tremendous journey,
from being moribund to being the wonderful church you can
visit today. If you want to read the slightly adapted
2006 entry for Gazeley, recounting this journey, you can
do so here. Coming back here today always fills me
with optimism for what can be achieved. On one occasion I
mentioned my experiences of Gazeley church to a Catholic
Priest friend of mine, and he said he hoped I knew I'd
seen the power of the Holy Spirit at work. And perhaps
that is so. Certainly, the energy and imagination of the
people here have been fired by something. On that
occasion I had wanted to find someone to ask about it, to
find out how things stood now. But there was no one, and
so the building spoke for them. Simon Knott, June 2019 Follow these journeys as they happen at Last Of England Twitter. |
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