St Andrew, Great Finborough |
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www.suffolkchurches.co.uk - a journey through the churches of Suffolk |
And then, over the next couple of years, things changed. I received e-mails telling me that Great Finborough church had been transformed, and was being looked after and loved. I must come back and see it again! And so I did. It was a bright sunny day, and I started off by seeing the tower at its most splendid, from the Buxhall road. Here, it rises up dramatically above the rolling fields, and it is not surprising that some people wonder if it is a great gothic monument of some kind, and not a church at all. Phipson was at work here in the middle years of the 1870s. Many anecdotal stories attach themselves to churches, and every county has a church where, supposedly, the local squire demanded a striking spire so that he could find his way home when out hunting. This church is Suffolk's. The family in the Big House here were the Wollastons, who became Pettiwards, and this must once have felt very much the Hall church. The last of the Pettiwards was killed in the Second World War. After some years as the headquarters of Eastern Electricity, the Hall became a school in the 1970s. But most likely, it was the Rector who wanted the tower built this way, and allowed Phipson a full run at his Tractarian principles. The banding is reminiscent of All Saints Margaret Street in London, which had been built a decade earlier. Inside, the most significant feature is the north transept, which Phipson intended to hold the Wollaston and Pettiward memorials which had lined the walls of the old church. The kind lady who was at work inside the church recognised me, but had the grace not to hit me about the head for my earlier remarks, and even made me a cup of tea. She explained the history of the Wollaston family, and knew a great deal about the memorials themselves. On the south side of the nave is a sequence of windows by Clayton & Bell,depicting scenes leading up to the Crucifixion beneath quatrefoils of Faith, Hope and Charity. In the best of these, Mary Magdalene kneels at Christ's feet in Bethany while Martha and Lazarus look on. There is a stunning Annunciation scene up in the chancel - is this also by Clayton & Bell? - and overall there is a sense of a typical 19th century rural High Church atmosphere, still today as Phipson must have imagined it. And today, the dust and the mess have gone, and Great Finborough church is obviously loved. I decided I liked it a lot after all. I said goodbye to the nice lady, and stepped outside into the winter sunshine. I wandered around to the west side of the tower, and looked out across the valley to Buxhall. There are number of 19th century gravestones here, and one modern one. This is to the radio presenter John Peel, who lived in Great Finborough, and died of a heart attack while on holiday in Peru in 2004. For someone of my generation, a teenager at the end of the 1970s, Peel assumed almost a Messiah status. He was like a touchstone for the emerging alternative culture, at a time when it was simply very difficult to hear any music which was not part of the bland mainstream. Simon
Knott, January 2008, updated July 2015 Amazon commission helps cover the running costs of this site |