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At the end of a
narrow lane, half a mile from the
horrendous A140, is one of the Churches
Conservation Trust's Suffolk jewels. What
strikes the eye first is the step gabling
at the eastern ends of nave and chancel.
And then above them, simply one of the
loveliest towers in all Suffolk. The 15th
century flintwork rises up its sides, and
then opens out on three faces into the
Marian monogram, with letters around,
including the initials of Ave Maria,
Gratia Plena: Hail Mary, full of
grace. A reminder of Seely Suffolk, and
that this country was often described as
Our Lady's Dowry in medieval times,
before the Tudors went all protestant on
us. The bell in this tower is inscribed VIRGO
CORONATA DUC NOS AD REGNA BEATA: Lead
us, Crowned Virgin, to the Holy Kingdom.
This refers to the fifth glorious mystery
of the rosary, like the tower donor
inscription at Helmingham.
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At
close quarters, the 15th century south porch and
south chapel appear all as one, as at Sudbury St Gregory. But, from
a distance, this is clearly not the case, and the
chapel is almost a truncated aisle. It was
probably tucked into the space a little after the
porch was built. It is reminiscent of Newbourn, where the
south chapel hugs a south tower.
St
Mary is open every day, and you step down into a
plain, simple interior, bearing considerable
marks of each of the last three centuries.
Firstly, the 18th century gallery, a rare
survival. The organ fits into it beautifully, and
is very characterful.Secondly, a good 19th
century restoration by E.F. Bishopp, also
responsible for the restoration at Ipswich St
Nicholas. Roy Tricker observes that the cost
was borne by the vicar of the time. The chancel
here is Bishopp's masterpiece, particularly the
roof, with St Peter, St Paul and the four
Evangelists in alcoves in the wallposts. St Mark
turns slightly towards the east, while the other
five peer back into the nave.
The
legacy of the twentieth century is rather more
mundane, Munro Cautley's set of benches. The
crocketting on their backs echoes that of the
north and south walls of the nave; but I always
think with Cautley that you can see him observing
the letter of the Middle Ages rather than its
spirit. An even greater shame is that he was
replacing a set of 18th century box pews, which
must have looked delightful here. But above them
is one of Suffolk's finest double hammerbeam
roofs. Its carved figures have had their faces
cut away, probably by 17th century puritans.
Earlier in the 17th
century, Gilbert Mouse died in London, and was
buried in St Margaret, Westminster. However, he
came from this parish originally, and a delicious
memorial of the 1620s remembers him on the north
nave wall. In alabaster and slate, with skulls,
cherubs, bones and hour glasses surrounding an
inscription, it records his rise to be servant to
three Lord Chancellors. After his death, he left
money to this parish to maintain the highway (so
that's who we have to blame for the A140!)
and also for distribution to the poor on St
Thomas's Day and Good Friday for ever.
The
15th century font is rather unusual; lions and
buttresses support the stem, with angels under
the bowl in the best East Anglian tradition -
although this font is really in excellent
condition. The emblems carved in the 8 panels
include a crowned Marian symbol, a crucifixion
with Christ flanked by Mary and St John,
instruments of the Passion about a heart, and a
Tudor rose. There is also another crowned Marian
M, but this appears to have been recut more
recently. It is probably from the same workshop
as that at nearby Earl Stonham.
The
18th century has left the kindest legacy here.
The vestry in the south-west corner is
delightful, the glass panes in the lattice window
making it look as if it might be serving
double-purpose as the snug bar of some old
country hotel. Given the simplicity of the
building and the elegance of the gallery, you
can't help mourning for the box pews which
Cautley removed.
It was inevitable,
I suppose, that of the three Stonham
churches, this would be the one to go. Earl
Stonham and Stonham
Aspal are both sizeable
churches in sizeable villages. That at
Earl Stonham is one of Suffolk's most
interesting churches, if not as beautiful
as this one. Today, this parish is part
of Earl Stonham parish.
Before 1970,
Stonham Parva was in a joint parish with St
Andrew, Mickfield,
across the A140. That, today, is also
redundant, albeit now restored to use for
Christian purposes; a large medieval
parish then, with neither of its churches
working anymore.
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