St Mary, Worlingworth |
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www.suffolkchurches.co.uk - a journey through the churches of Suffolk |
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This part of Suffolk is a lattice
of lanes, meandering aimlessly as if they are so ancient
that they have forgotten their purpose. And then you
arrive in Worlingworth, which is is a large village and
it comes as a surprise. The tower of St Mary rears its
15th Century head above the pretty cottages, and you step
through a gate into a tight, verdant graveyard. From
here, the sheer scale of the Perpendicular windows in the
nave is accentuated by the lack of a clerestory. You can
see straight away that it is not going to be dark inside.
The porch disguises the size of the church, being large
in proportion. In fact, as there are no aisles,
Worlingworth has the second largest span of any church
roof in Suffolk, after Laxfield, double hammerbeams
lifting it across the expanse. The chancel is earlier,
although considerably rebuilt. The tower must have been
complete by 1452, because in that year William Doker left
40d towards the buying of a bell. Thereafter surviving
bequests are for furnishings and burials, so all in all
this is a church of the first half of the 15th Century. As expected, you step into a wide open space full of light, although one surprise in such a big church is the range of doored pews, one of the largest sets in the county and one of the loveliest too. Their doors are carved with the familiar arch, the wood burnished with the patina of age. The date 1630 can be seen at the front, though in fact it is likely that some earlier benches were adapted for reuse perhaps later in the 17th Century, and the date may simply be a survival from an old box pew. They serve their purpose so well that no later century has seen a reason to replace them. The effect of standing among them beneath the great double hammerbeam roof is a little like being in a forest. The writer Simon Jenkins famously described the parish churches of England as a vast folk museum, and he might well have been thinking about Worlingworth in particular. Here, there is a real sense of the life of ordinary people in this parish over six centuries or more. But perhaps the most interesting survivals here are the more recent. In the south aisle, a large painting shows the Worlingworth Feast on the occasion of the Golden Jubilee of George III in 1810. The church you are standing in can be seen to the left. If you look closely, you'll see an ox being roasted on a great spit. Turning to the north west, you can see the spit itself leaning up in the corner. The painting has now been joined by another, depicting the Golden Jubilee feast for Elizabeth II in 2002. In front of the spit is the famous Worlingworth fire engine, dating from the year of George III's accession, 1760. Once these were a common sight in churchyards or in the yards of stately homes. Mortlock says that this one was last used on Guy Fawkes Night, 1927. On it is the name of the makers, Newsham and Ragg of Cloth Fair, in the city of London. Sir John Betjeman spent the most creative years of his life living in a house in Cloth Fair, so I wonder if he knew of the Worlingworth fire engine? Worlingworth's 15th Century font is in the typical East Anglian style of that century, with angels holding shields interspersed with the symbols of the four Evangelists. At the base is a dedicatory inscription asking for prayers for the soul of Nicholas Money. Local tradition has it that the font came originally from Bury Abbey, although you can't help thinking that the font there would have been less run of the mill. The towering Perpendicular font cover is contemporary and reminiscent of those at Ufford and Sudbury St Gregory. The painted decoration is mostly later. Whatever the origins of the font it is hard to imagine that the cover came from anywhere else. It must have been designed for the space it now fills. On the north wall, part of the St Christopher wall-painting survives. The figure of the saint is now lost, but the fish still go about their business around his feet. The 15th Century saints remain in glass in some upper lights of the nave, albeit fragmentary. They include St Apollonia, St Catherine, St Mary Magdalene, St Margaret and St Anne with the young Blessed Virgin, an unusual survival. Two reset heraldic shields are contemporary, one of them supported by angels. There are some interesting fragments of 16th Century glass below, unusual crowned figures that include a majestic Blessed Virgin and Christchild as well as some other figures, all English I think but showing a Flemish influence. Among them is a panel with a paraphrase of Proverbs 10:9, He that walke playnly walketh safely. A very similar panel is in one of the side chapels of Kings College Chapel, Cambridge, and they were likely produced in the mid-16th Century by a Norwich workshop. Memorials include one in Coade Stone to Dame Anne Henniker of 1792.The Henniker arms is in glass above the chancel, and another memorial is to Sir John Major of 1780. The Henniker-Majors are most familiar to us from their many memorials not far off at Thornham Magna. John Bacon's memorial to Elizabeth, Dowager Duchess of Chandos is striking. The royal arms of George III
consist of nothing other than the charged shield, with no
supporters, crest or motto. From the same century there
are some charming and poignant ledger stones at the west
end of the nave. The grandly named William Nelson Buckle,
second son of the Rev. Charles Buckle, died on the 6th of
August 1787, aged just five months, Relieved from
Woe, Disease and anxious Care, with all those Passions
which perplex us here... Next to him, James
Barker to his dearest wyfe Susanna doth this last office
of love, for she was Religious, Chaste, Discreet,
Loveing... underneath, added almost as an
afterthought, he observes that Her rest gives me a
rest-lesse life, because she was a vertuous wyfe. But yet
I rest in hope to see that Daye of Christ, and then see
thee. |
Simon Knott, January 2021
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